Diorama foam

DioDump DD Rubble piles - scale. Destroyed or damaged buildings are always a popular theme in many WW2 diorama's. These rubble or debris piles can add a great deal of realism. The kit consists of 6 plaster rubble pieces showing bricks, tiles, planks, wooden beams, drain pipe, roof tile, currugated sheet and a German Nazi facade eagle.

One large piece has a flat back so it can easily be placed against a ruined wall or building. Also included are small bags with brick rubble and mortar. These help to smooth things out while constructing your diorama. Unpainted, no assembly needed. DioDump DD Cork 'rock' mix.

The natural structure creates an instant realistic look for small and large rocks. Cork is versatile, tough and easy to work with. Fine, medium and coarse pieces. Work from large to small. Use white acrylic paint as a base coat. Use a black wash for shadows and detailing. DioDump DD Battlefield tree trunks scale. Great item for any 'battlefield' themed diorama or figure vignette. There are 9 different trees included. All sharply casted in high quality resin. Unpainted, no assebly needed.

Sizes range from approx. Suitable for multiple scales.

diorama foam

DioDump DD Small rocks. Great for any rural diorama. The flat bottom makes it easy to place the rocks in a natural and realistic way. Material: resin unpainted. DioDump DD Flat rocks. DioDump DD Tree stumps.There are plenty of tutorials online about how to create brick walls for your diorama, but I found that I wanted a more realistic result for my action figure photography.

A standard brick measures 2. I primed it with grey paint, but I could have waited to paint it until a later stage. After measuring out every quarter inch, I scribed the horizontal lines using the tip of a mechanical pencil. Using the pencil rather than an X-Acto knife gives a rough line, like what you would see on old crumbling mortar lines. All the horizontal lines are done!

Cutting across the grain of the insulation board results in a much rougher line, which was fine for this application, but a blade should be used if you want cleaner lines.

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All done! Scribing all those lines may have been a chore, but the results are definitely worth the effort. Since I wanted an old, crumbly wall, the surface needed to be roughed up.

My tools of choice: 40 grit sandpaper, a rubber mallet, and a rock. Rotate the foam board so that the distressing is not repetitive. I used a flat head screwdriver to press in random bricks.

This step made a huge difference and really made the wall start to look like it was old and weather-beaten. The wall looks different depending on the light source, which will add a great deal of interest to the photos I plan to take with this backdrop. I used several layers of dry brushed reds and browns, building up the color more in some parts than others.

After the wash was applied, I scrubbed it with a paper towel, which results in some interesting mottled effects as some of the red colored paint was removed. After the black wash dried completely, I went over the whole wall with a white wash diluted white paintand while it was wet, removed most of it with a crumpled up paper towel. With a square brush, I went in and colored random bricks with a variety of diluted browns, blacks, and oranges. I also used a fine tipped brush and added grayish white mortar.

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This step really brought the wall to life. The walls look pretty good on their own, but the magic happens when you add some props. Place a figure in the scene and then adjust the lighting and it all comes together nicely. I would think so. If you sand the foam board and make a lot of dust, that could be harmful. Also, if you melt it with a hot iron cutting tool, the vapors are toxic, but otherwise, I would think that foam board would be safe for children to use.

This is straight rigid styrofoam, no silver backing. Thanks for all the tips. Just finished priming my first 2 brick walls using your tutorial.

Where to obtain styrofoam or foam board for diorama?

I opted to prime after cutting. I did use a spray paint grey primer and it seemed to have dissolved the bricks in some areas. Guess spray paint should not be used. But it does give a cool effect. Cant wait to finish and display a predator in it. Yeah, spray paint will dissolve styrofoam. I always paint the styrofoam first with regular house paint, and then you can use spray paint.

The dissolving can create some interesting effects for broken metal or crumbling rocks. Keep a spray bottle filled with water nearby — it will stop the foam from dissolving.

Excellent job going to be doing my first diorama but I going to use polystyrene sheets will this have the same affect? The painting process will be similar, but the carving of the bricks will be a little different.For ship model builders such as myself, water base can really make or break a good model.

In this article I would like to show you how to produce a realistic sea base for ship model, with rough water surface, surf and wake. Despite of what we all know about water, deep water basins seldom look transparent, especially when seen from a distance.

Rather than that, water has colour and forms a glossyhighly reflective surface. First you will need to establish the composition and layout of your base. Most of the times this is simple: place the model on the sheet of paper of the same size as the intended base, and outline its hull along the waterline.

If you have any other elements such as peers, shoreline etc, trace them on paper, too. Now comes the fun part: making the sea surface. A piece of kitchen aluminium foil is wrinkled thoroughly, and then stretched on a flat surface.

Then, a wooden frame the size of the base is placed on top of it.

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The frame and the foil together form a mould for the sea surface. For moulding, I use fine-grade plaster of Paris. It is blended with water as per instructions and poured into the frame. As plaster is quite brittle, I usually reinforce the mould by adding a cotton gauze on top of the poured liquid.

Adding an additional layer of plaster over it can help to blended the gauze invisibly into the moulding. It takes about 30 minutes for the plaster to harden so that it can be removed from the frame. However, it is necessary to wait additional 3 days before it is completely cured. It will replicate the multitude of short irregular waves caused by wind blowing over sea surface. These waves can be sculpted from epoxy putty.

The highest white-crested wave will surround the bow, usually with overhang on its top part. The bow wave should be spreading into the fan shape towards the rear.

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The sides of the hull will also induce smaller waves along its length. It is helpful to draw the wave pattern on the plaster base with a pencil so that you ensure maintaining the uniform but not symmetrical look of the waves on both sides of the hull.

These waves can be modelled similarly to the bow wave, using the spatula to create crests and patches of foam. Be careful to work on a small area at a time — once the epoxy putty hardens, it becomes almost impossible to work with.

The following photo shows the completed waterline of Kaga, with in-progress waterline of Akagi in the background. The wake of the fast-going ship is different from other waves on our base in that it its area will be almost completely covered with white foam. To complete the waves, a coat of Gunze Mr. Surfacer liquid putty is applied in selected areas to smooth out the edges between the epoxy putty and plaster.

First I coat the entire base with white primer. It allows me to discover any remaining joint marks, fingerprints and other blemishes. If found, these are treated with liquid putty.

The completed base prior to painting looks like this:.I build dioramas for a single purpose: to photograph scale scenes to tell a story. For that reason, I use materials and building techniques that are more like a temporary movie set and not a permanent home to be lived in.

Foam board can build everything from walls, floors, showers, kitchen counters and more. The rooms are put and taken down in short weeks, and everything stores flat and compact. The tools needed are a shortlist of inexpensive items that anyone can buy and have in their home. Foam board rooms are never going to look as good as well crafted wood room boxes and furniture.

So you do get what you pay for. I hope any part of my diorama tutorials can inspire or help you with whatever materials you plan to use for your projects. I can reuse the wall boards if stored correctly for up to 5 years. Keep them stacked together flat, or on top of each other in a dry. This thicker board is best for cutting out holes for windows and doors. So, floors can be tricky. Black board is always more expensive that white, so I use this in moderation and only when needed.

It smudges easily from hand contact or other materials against it. Pinning them to other boards can make white holes on the darker color side, so pin them on their sides through the other board to avoid that. Always use sharp blades to cut foam board. I highly recommend a metal ruler for two reasons 1 plastic rulers can be sliced into changing how straight their lines can be 2 the heavier weight helps when holding down the ruler to make long cuts.

The beige masking tape is much stickier and will damage the surface of any type of foam board. The glossier the surface of the foam board, the easier the masking tape will come off without damaging the surface. Black board is the most fragile surface and damages easiest with masking tape.

Ball headed pins work best for pinning 2 boards together to make back and side walls. The Ball headed pins are usually longer and thicker and fabulous temporary nails for walls. The Flat headed pins are great as nails for smaller projects such as kitchen counters, or staircases. Below are several photos of pre-made windows for Playscale dollhouses, or doors for dollhouses that are big enough to work as windows.

I place them atop the board, use a pencil to draw the outline of the inside of the window well that will be pushed into the hold you cut into the board. Then use the metal ruler to make a cleaner, straight drawing of the lines, then press the metal ruler down on the board and cut. To cover the fraying board effect inside the window well, I use white contact paper. Or no window at all. Where do I get all the different colors and styles of sticky-back contact paper? Mostly the internet.

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I used to purchase it from Home Depot near the kitchen appliance isle, but they usually carry the same 6 or 7 rolls that I have plenty of. They also carry a really nice and cheap white, cream and black roll that are extremely useful.

Then I remove the paper from the back of the contact paper, exposing the sticky part up. I place the foam board piece smack in the middle of it. I then flip it over on the foam board side and use my hand to smooth over any air bubbles, making sure the contact paper is completely smooth and stuck to the board.The placement of our model in a diorama or vignette gives it a reality, a background and a history, an added dimension and a reason for the humidity, the traces of mud, of the dry sand of the desert or the dark earth of the wooded landscapes of central Europe.

The range of Diorama Effects offers the modeler everything needed for the reproduction of a terrain, with effects of sandy and dusty roads, or of snow, mud and water, all of which add to the realism of the setting and relate the model to its environment.

Diorama Effects is not flammable, and does not contain solvents. Please see also certified safety information of the product on the Safety page. Safety: Diorama Effects is not flammable, and does not contain solvents. Packaging: Available in ml. Applications: Transparent Water is a transparent gel, perfect for the reproduction of moving shallow waters, or shaping waves and peaks. Transparent Water dries to a transparent and glossy finish in about 24 hours, depending on the thickness of the application.

Applications: Mediterranean Blue is a dense blue gel, of a color similar to the Mediterranean Sea. Due to the translucent nature of the product, it is recommended to apply it on a base painted previously with a darker color to enhance the effect of depth. The gel dries in approx. Applications: Pacific Blue is a dense blue gel, of a color similar to the Pacific Ocean. The gel dries in approximately 24 hours, depending on the thickness of the application. Applications: Atlantic Blue is a dense blue gel, of a color similar to the Atlantic Ocean.

Applications: White Stone is a finely textured smooth white marble paste. Once dry, surface can be carved and sanded.

diorama foam

The product can be used as mortar and filler on constructions and joints. Applications: Rough White Pumice is a heavy paste of resin, titanium white and natural pumice, with a rough white finish, for surface building and irregular terrain, reliefs and peak.

Applications: Rough Grey Pumice is a heavy paste of resin and natural pumice stone, with a rough grey finish, for surface building and irregular terrain, reliefs and peaks.

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Applications: Black Lava-Asphalt has a thick and dense consistency, appropriate for volcanic grounds and for asphalt on roads and construction sites. Applications: Grey Sand is a grey rough texture to reproduce the coarse terrain of dunes and rocks in arid climates. The texture is also ideal for creating surfaces of rusted metal. Applications: Desert Sand is a sand — colored, gritty acrylic paste of medium viscosity for grounds of beaches and deserts. Applications: Dark Earth, the color of humid grounds, has a thick and dense consistency, appropriate for the reproduction of ground textures on diorama and vignette bases.

Applications: Brown Earth, the color of clay grounds, has a thick and dense consistency, appropriate for the reproduction of ground textures on diorama and vignette bases. Please see also certified safety information of the product on the Safety sheet. Applications: Still Water is a glass clear liquid which levels itself, even on irregular surfaces, to reproduce the effect of transparent still water. Apply in several fine layers of no more than 3 mm.

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Applications: Foam is a heavy, extra opaque white acrylic, which can be applied directly from the bottle, has been formulated for simulating raised crests on waves. Dries quickly to a hard, white surface. Applications: European Thick Mud is a dark brown color with traces of vegetation, most commonly observed in central European terrain and humid areas of the Mediterranean countries. Most of the non alkaline grounds present this color.

Applications: Russian Thick Mud is a familiar shade known as Black Earth, especially dark and dense, found in the very fertile soil of Eastern Europe, the Ukraine and southern Russia. Russian Mud contains traces of vegetation which ad a special density and realistic texture.

Applications: Industrial Thick Mud, the color of grayish mud, native to urban environment, where the presence of human activity, industrial construction, ruins and decay, have caused this particular shade of sludge. Applications: Light Brown Thick Mud, the color of mud occurring on alkaline lands, in dry climates of desert and Mediterranean areas, which due to their sandy nature easily absorb humidity.

Controller: Acrylicos Vallejo S.I have a youtube channel with over Videos! Hi, Thanks for visiting my website. My name is Will and if you have questions or would like to contribute projects or ideas you can contact me. Diorama Foam and Tools Want to know more about working with foam to make dioramas, projects, weapons and more?

diorama foam

I have a video here:. I have a series of tutorials on how to make dioramas with foam. I have a tutorial with video on making a dungeon diorama here:. I show you some great techniques for making a dungeon diorama which is also good for table top gaming. I also have some 3d printed minatures in this diorama. Make a Dungeon Diorama. SmoothFoam makes a wide variety of EPS products.

This DOW Foam is my favorite foam. It is strong and light and easily carvable. I use this in just about all my projects. It is rather expensive though. And you can buy smaller sheets at your local Home Depot or Lowes.

Typically 1 inch thick and 24x24". But these are Extruded Polystyrene sheets. They are the exact material that I use in the video tutorial.

This picture shows several thicknesses of foam being used to create terrain. The inch measurements of the foam on this page denote the thickness of the foam. Foam Sheet, 2". Foam Sheet, 3".

Foam Sheet, 4". No mess!My recommendation would be to get a 2'x8' sheet of 2" foam insulation pink or blue. You can cut your base out of the sheet and use the remainder for hills, etc.

I recommend the 2" as it would be self supporting at that size. If you have to get 1", get a 4'x8' sheet and glue your base from two pieces, use cheap latex caulk as an adhesive. Use one for your backdrop, cut to the appropriate height.

You could leave the top edge straight or cut it to the contour of your diorama. I would recommend doing a search online. Searching online well save your feet and some gas. Foam-board or insolboard. It will be in the lumber section. Check out our.

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Current Issue. Where to obtain styrofoam or foam board for diorama? Order Ascending Order Descending. Member since February 12 posts. Posted by cowboyred on Saturday, May 8, PM. Where is a good place to get 1" thick styrofoam board or foam board that thick that size? Lived in seven countries, now live in Sundown, Louisiana 25, posts. Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Saturday, May 8, PM.

I get my white bead board at Lowe's. Depends on where you live. Styrofoam is a little different than white bead board. I get mine at any big box supply store. I hear it is more scarce in the south. Foamboard does not come that thick and does not make a great base in that it does not like water. It is pretty spendy. If you think you have it right, your standards are too low. Member since July From: Central Vermont 4, posts.

Posted by cowman on Saturday, May 8, PM. Welcome to the forums!